All that the heart desires

All that the heart desires

Nagy Vásárcsarnok, exterior view, 2005

The Great Market Hall in Budapest (c) Aktron / Wikimedia Commons

One of the most striking buildings in Budapest is the Great Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok), officially called the Central Market Hall (Központi Vásárcsarnok). It is only a few steps away from the Freedom Bridge and the University of Economics and is well connected to public transport. It has to be, because if you go in there to shop, you’re guaranteed to come out loaded with lots of treasures. With 10,000 square metres, it is one of the largest market halls in Europe and worth seeing not only because of its epicurean offerings.

The architecture is also impressive and a typical example of the time when Hungary and Austria had one and the same ruler. The exchange of architects between Vienna and Budapest during the time of Emperor Franz Joseph I, who was also crowned King of Hungary in 1867, can still be seen in both cityscapes today. When the Ringstrasse was built in Vienna, Budapest also experienced a boom in inner-city development. What few people know is that in 1897, on exactly the same day, not only the large market hall but also four others were opened in Budapest. This had nothing to do with a coincidence, but came about due to a directive from the Ministry of Health of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. It had banned the hitherto customary open sale of food directly from horse-drawn carts along Andrasy ut – today Budapest’s most splendid and expensive shopping street – and those along the Danube for reasons of hygiene. For this reason, five market halls were planned and built at the same time to maintain the city’s local supply, all of which still exist today after renovations in the 1980s.

Partial view of the Great Market Hall (c) European Cultural News

Partial view of the Great Market Hall still with the Christmas decorations, taken in early January 2016 (c) European Cultural News

The large market hall, like its smaller sisters and brothers, is based on a steel and glass construction that was highly modern for its time, albeit designed by different architects. The ground plan of the large market hall, planned by Samuel Petz, resembles that of a cathedral with a nave and two side aisles. Large towers were added at the corners. It was opened in the presence of Franz Josef I. A sign of how important this urban planning measure was considered to be.

Enough history. Anyone who goes to the market hall today will find a wide range of goods on offer. In the central, ground-level hall, which is not heated and keeps food wonderfully fresh in winter even without refrigeration, you will find everything your heart and stomach desire. The fact that Hungarians like to eat meat is immediately noticeable. There are countless stalls selling fresh meat. Mainly pork, but also lots of poultry. From chicken to duck and goose, everything is neatly piled up. And not just the gusto pieces.

All offal, but also pork or chicken legs, indispensable for soups and stocks, but also bacon in all variations, up to grammels, or as they say in Germany, greaves and not to forget goose fat, are sold. Those who like to eat foie gras will find several stalls here that offer this delicacy not only ready-made as pâtés in tins, but also fresh, usually vacuum-packed.

Foie gras pâté at the market hall in Budapest (c) European Cultural News

Foie gras pâté at the market hall in Budapest (c) European Cultural News

Hungary, along with France, is one of those countries where this foodstuff has a long culinary tradition, even more: a not inconsiderable share of Hungarian production is even exported to France. Beef is also to be found, albeit less frequently, but of very nice quality. Of course, the wide range of different dried sausages is striking. Salami in every variety, but also, although only at a few stalls, fresh roast sausages, liver sausages and blood sausages and a ready-seasoned sausage meat with which you can wonderfully stuff vegetables and potatoes. Whoever buys something like this must be allowed to use or own a kitchen in Budapest itself, because these fresh sausages are unfortunately unsuitable for long-distance transport. Stowed in a thermo bag and equipped with cooling packs, however, they can survive a trip all the way to Vienna, at least in the cold season.

Besides meat, there is a wonderful selection of fruit and vegetables. The many types of peppers, from fresh to dried, are literally eye-catching.

Parika hot and fresh (c) Market Hall Budapest (c) European Cultural News

Parika hot and fresh (c) Market Hall Budapest (c) European Cultural News

Whether hanging from the ceiling or the tables of the stalls, or set up in such a way that you bump into it directly with your nose – there’s no getting around red, Hungarian paprika. And you can take it home finely powdered in a wide variety of flavours in small bags or tins. An indispensable spice in Hungarian cuisine, it not only lends its incomparable flavour to goulash or pörkölt. It can also be found in Liptauer. If you want to buy it fresh, you can do so at one of the large stands near the main entrance.

Not only is there fresh Liptauer, packed in small plastic containers for the customers, but also crumbly curd – essential for one of the national dishes – curd halushka (túrós csusza). At the same stall there is a real speciality that you really shouldn’t miss if you like to cook. In plastic tubs, neatly lined up next to each other, are ready-made powidl, rosehip pulp, preserved cherries and a kind of apricot roaster.

Powidl, preserved apricots and cherries and rosehip pulp (c) European Cultural News

Powidl, preserved apricots and cherries and rosehip pulp (c) European Cultural News

Indispensable for pastries, but if you don’t want to do the baking work, you can create delicious desserts with yoghurt, cream or ice cream. There are no limits to the imagination.

While we’re on the subject of sweet treats: Of course, there are also lots of local treats such as poppy seed or nut buns, fresh yeast pastries, and during our visit in January, lots of biscuits, tarts and cakes.

Another little tip for the finicky: if you look closely, you will find Russian caviar at some of the stalls. Not only the usual varieties are to be found, but also the much milder, because less salted malossol finds its buyers – at prices that one can only dream of west of Hungary. This is probably a remnant of market history from the times when communism provided the better-off population from the Urals to the Danube with this luxury.

In the basement there has recently been an Aldi branch, a few stalls with another speciality: pickled vegetables, which artfully layered, smile at the customers from their jars.

Pickled vegetables in the market hall Budapest (c) European Cultural News

Pickled vegetables in the market hall Budapest (c) European Cultural News

You should visit the fish stalls in the morning, in the afternoon all but two are already closed. And if you feel like it, buy yourself a little souvenir for the kitchen. Small goulash kettles for serving on the table or wooden cooking spoons with smiley branding are reminders of a visit to the market hall even years later.

On the first floor, in a narrow corridor that runs around the market hall and offers a good view of the stalls below, beautiful embroidery and leather goods are offered alongside kitschy, touristy craft products. Seek and you shall find, is the motto here. We liked it

Pearl-embroidered bracelets from Budapest Market Hall (c) European Cultural News

Pearl-embroidered bracelets from Budapest Market Hall (c) European Cultural News

on beaded headbands and bracelets embroidered by one of the women on site. If you get hungry after all the delicacies on display, you can also buy hot meals at some of the stalls on the first floor. Haute cuisine is not on offer here, and anyone expecting that is in the wrong place. What is cooked here is well described as Hungarian home cooking. Pörkölt – goulash in German, gulyas – goulash soup in German, cabbage rolls in different variations and, above all, every conceivable kind of fried sausage with various side dishes, but also sweet-filled pancakes. It’s nice that doner kebab and pizza haven’t spread here yet. However, one should not expect leisure in consumption. The crowds are huge, the aisle with its narrow tables and high barstool-like chairs is itself narrow, but if you’re not claustrophobic, you can enjoy the dishes here amidst the hustle and bustle of the many tourists.

Those who visit the large market hall in Budapest more often will soon get to know the faces of the vendors. There is not really a high turnover here. After all, many stalls have been family-owned for decades. Even if some articles on the internet say that the offer of this market hall is overpriced and geared towards tourists: Our impression, from the point of view of culinary interested people and frequent cooks, is that of a large and qualitatively very good selection, at prices that are below the Austrian level. And last, but not least: Where else than at markets and in market halls can you still openly buy food in every conceivable unit of measurement and weight?

Conclusion: worth seeing, tasting and buying!

If you want to know more about the market halls of Budapest, you can find here a very informative article in English, which not only describes the history but also the current use of the five halls very well.

Here, also in English, are videos, dates and the offer of a 4-hour guided tour and tasting in the large market hall.

Here is an article about the coffee houses in Budapest: Coffee Houses in Budapest: A Winter’s Tale.

Coffee Houses in Budapest – a Winter’s Tale

Coffee Houses in Budapest – a Winter’s Tale

Coffee Houses in Budapest – a Winter’s Tale

Von Michaela Preiner

New York Cafe (c) European Cultural News


January 2016
In our 3-part series offering culinary tips for a short break in Budapest, we start with a small overview of the city’s most traditional coffee shops.
If you’re heading to Budapest, you can safely leave your car at home, because the public transport network is dense and the intervals are short. At the same time, you save your nerves when looking for a parking space in the city centre, because it is completely parked. Budapest offers the whole range of accommodation options, from luxury hotels to very cheap apartments in the middle of the city.

There is a lot to see and especially in winter, when you can’t sit outside, you like to interrupt your city explorations with a hot drink and a pastry in one of the numerous coffee houses. But if you go to Starbucks in Budapest, it’s your own fault. Because, comparable to Vienna, there is a large selection of really nice locations with a fascinating patisserie offer. And some of the premises are truly breathtaking.

Our top recommendation: The Coffee Müvész

Not far from the opera – about two minutes’ walk away – is our absolute favourite. Café Müvész at 29 Andrássy ut. Founded in 1898, it offers its guests a really nice and cosy coffee house atmosphere in two rooms one behind the other. In the small porch, a mulled wine pot was simmering away in the cold days of January. In the first room, the large, mirrored bar is impressive, but even more so are the two showcases with the range of cakes and pastries. The rotating cake etagères show confectionery art at its best. Poppy-seed cake filled with sour jam, caramel cream cake in two variations, Sacher cake in the style of Alain Ducasse – filled with chocolate cream, Esterhazy slices, Dobo cakes, marzipan cakes and so on. Because we were so impressed, here’s a video summary in which only a small part of the sweet delicacies can be seen.
The service is quick, extremely friendly and nobly styled; completely in the Müvész look in black, with golden ties, both for the ladies and the gentlemen. The bakery adjoins the second guest room and opened frequently during the two hours we spent there, as staff constantly brought fresh cake supplies to fill the display cases. Unlike the much more famous Gerbeaud coffee house, the Müvész, which also calls itself “The Little Gerbeaud” in its menu, is mainly frequented by locals.
The friendly service in the coffee Müvész (c) European Cultural News
One thing right away. The Müvész is much smaller than the Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty tér. However, the selection of cakes, as well as snacks – starting from breakfast to hot dishes and salads, is much larger at Müvész. The historic ambience and subdued lighting give the impression that time has stood still in this place. However, the range of traditional and contemporary patisserie on offer shows that both heart and mind are at work here at the same time to ensure that guests are completely satisfied. There are much more impressive cafés in Budapest in terms of ambience. But nowhere did we feel so comfortable and were so convinced by the selection.

The poppy-seed cake was moist, with wonderful fine layers of tart jam, and the caramel cake not powerful at all due to the fluffy caramel cream. If we hadn’t also had dinner planned, we would have each treated ourselves to another tart.

And the prices are also much more moderate than in those coffees we still visited. Amazing, because the quality was much more convincing than elsewhere. Following the trend of the times, there is now a second branch. Also in Andrássy ut, a few hundred metres further out of town on the opposite side of the street, Müvész also offers a lounge-style location. Glazed on both sides, the restaurant is bright and friendly and furnished in the taste of a young, urban audience.

The “Book Café” – a “must see” in Budapest


Just a few steps away, at 39 Andrássy ut, in what was once Budapest’s oldest department stores’, is the Book Café. It takes its name from the fact that it is housed above the second floor of a bookshop. From the outside, however, nothing of this can be seen.
The bookstore “Alexandra”, which exists several times in Budapest, certainly benefits from this coffee, because everyone who wants to go there inevitably has to pass by the many book shelves. Personally, I can’t imagine a nicer combination, even though the selection of foreign-language books is rather small. In the coffee itself, a sign at the entrance asks you to wait for the staff to take you to a free table. This makes sense, especially at peak times when many guests want to visit the coffee. If there are no more seats, then you have to wait, but it is not possible to look around the spacious, historically furnished hall. However, when the rush is over, the sign is removed and you are allowed to choose your own table. A large selection of freely available newspapers and a pianist offer further opportunities for distraction in addition to the epicurean delights. But actually, it is enough to devote oneself entirely to the ambience itself.
The ceiling is decorated with numerous paintings by Károly Lotz and one never tires of looking at them. Originally, the stunning hall was used as a ballroom, which one can still imagine very well today. Lotz was called the “prince among Hungarian artists” in his time and his paintings can be found in the Szépművészeti Múzeum, which is still closed for renovations until 2018. A small side note: Lotz became dean of the newly founded “Painting for Women” department at the Academy of Arts in Budapest in 1885. A once revolutionary step towards equality.
In addition to the traditional range of cakes, a display case with snacks also beckons. Both the Dobos and Esterhazy cakes we consumed were good, but they still lacked that tiny little something that makes these cakes so irresistible. However, with the hot drinks – such as a whole range of flavoured coffees – the coffee picked up plus points with us again. But honestly: We would go again just because of the wonderful hall. The staff – young and dynamic – were courteous, quick and attentive. In summer, the roof terrace is also open. Surely a great alternative, because from there you are supposed to have a wonderful view of the city. The large numbers of mobile phones, with photo functions, held out in every conceivable direction, made it clear that at least half of the guests were tourists.

The “New York” coffee – you can’t get more ostentatious than this in a coffee house


On the ground floor of the Boscolo Hotel, at Erzsébet körút 9-11, is the “New York” restaurant and café. In terms of architecture, it may compete with the “Book Café”. The difference: the New York is divided into several rooms and several levels. The pomp is even greater – more gold and more marble, more stucco and more columns. The hotel, restaurant and café were only reopened a few years ago after a long period of renovation.
The culinary offer is very different from that of a long-established Budapest house. Here they offer patisserie that you could just as easily find in Strasbourg or Paris. Small, sweet creations, elegantly arranged, with a price to match. The only downer is that there is nothing sweet here for less than 8 euros. However, everything we consumed was to be recommended. A hemisphere-shaped cream dusted with pistachio powder, filled with crispy inside, had green, sweet, edible moss and spiced sour cherries on its side. Not only great for the palate. The “Rákóczi”-style curd cake is accompanied by apricot ice cream and the Hungarian hazelnut cake lived up to its main ingredient in terms of taste.

As in the “Book Café”, a pianist provides background music. But always in such a way that you can easily have a good conversation on the side. During our late visit – it was already after 10 p.m. – we heard the waiters serving us exclusively in English. An indication of purely international guests who did not want to miss out on this surround-sound experience. The Internet page of Cafe New York is called “the most beautiful café in the world”. And what must not be forgotten: it is probably the only coffee in Budapest that is open until midnight every day. So it’s a great place to end the evening after a visit to the opera or a concert.

The classic in Budapest: The Gerbeaud


So far, there hasn’t been a visit to Budapest without a little detour to Gerbeaud. The big house on Vörösmarty tér always attracted us with its fantastic cakes. This time, however, we were a little disappointed. Maybe it was because we were assigned to a very draughty table near the entrance. Maybe because the coffee tasted anything but good. Maybe also because the range of cakes on offer when we visited the coffee house on Fridays at 5.30 p.m. was very manageable. Even the small works of art in the display case, which you could buy complete as a take-away for home, were of no use.
The macarons piled up into a cone were wonderful to look at, but can now be bought around the globe. The range of chocolates and other chocolaty products is a nice and exclusive souvenir from Budapest. But rather unsuitable for tasting on the spot. Maybe we were just unlucky that day as far as the selection is concerned. Unfortunately, the menu with a total of 12 cakes, which is available on the internet, was not offered to us, the showcase seemed almost cleared out. We then decided on a Gerbeaud slice with walnuts and apricot jam, which was nice and moist and chocolaty, and a Dobos cake with a wonderfully crispy yet light caramel lid. Just as it should be.

The delicious coconut hot chocolate was spiked with coconut shavings. Locals picked up patisserie to take home from the counter, but in the rooms themselves we didn’t hear a Hungarian word at any table. The waitress was very courteous and polite and spoke fluent English. Conclusion: What we consumed was very good – except for the coffee, which tasted sour without milk. However, we would have liked a wider selection.

The coffee houses in Budapest, at least the ones described here, are worth a trip to this beautiful city on their own. What else we discovered there in terms of gastronomy, we will report on shortly!

The article about the market hall in Budapest: Everything your heart desires.

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